Mark and I went down to Finley National Wildlife Refuge this morning, leaving even before “we had a sip of tea!” We brought bagels and tea in travel mugs and sat at the prairie overlook to eat. Around us, camas bloomed and red winged blackbirds held their morning conversations under a cloudy sky. The air was still and just a bit cool—perfect for April. It has taken a long while—half my life—to learn to read this landscape nd I spent some time thinking about the difference between the landscapes we were born to and the ones we come to know.
I was born to New Hampshire and that landscape is in my blood. The hills, the glimpses of sky, the winding roads, and the crazy highways around Boston where I learned to really drive. I grew up chasing waves along the tideline on Cape Cod, standing in the center of a huge maple tree in late September, staring at the range of color from green, to yellow, to orange, to red and all of the combinations in between. I watched the stars—and encountered skunks—from granite outcroppings in an old field, followed logging roads and stove walls deep into the second growth of old farms, and buried my nose in lilacs in May. I could smell snow on the air before it started and knew the particular silence that comes with a storm in the night. And thunderstorms punctuated the summer days. Houses had square shoulders and faced the street and, by the time I graduated from college, I could date their construction within 25 years.
When I moved west, I lost all of the knowledge of place. It has taken thirty years—and a much closer application of plant guidebooks and trail maps—for me to learn my way into the Willamette Valley and the Cascade Range. For a long while, facing north, I wanted the ocean to be on my right hand, not my left. I would walk along trails and feel like the deep place was just beyond my grasp. Someday, it said, you will know. I know now. I know where the first fawn lily will bloom near the beaver dam, just where the elk kicked it down the embankment about ten years ago. I know how dry sunlight feels at elevation, while I stare at the mountains over a high lake where I have just plunged into the water to wash away the sweat of the trail. I know when to plant out the greens, and the tomatoes, so that the slugs will not eat them to nubs before they grow. And I know how the light shifts in my classroom which faces north, from mid-day to late afternoon. The huge high skies, the long, long summer evenings, the endless cloudy days of mist and rain are all part of my psyche now.
It is Earth Week. Today, at Finley, I made some notes on what was blooming, but not a complete plant list. We will do that in two weeks, on May Day, because we walk the same trail and observe its changes every six weeks. I have notes going back 20 odd years scattered through my notebooks. Thoreau did the same thing around Walden Pond, returning to the same spots close to his home to observe and record what he saw there. First blooms, first birds, seasonal changes of all sorts. Scientists now use his notes to track the impacts of climate change; some plants are blooming two weeks earlier than in 1840. We see serious changes happening in real time right now—we could trace them back in our own notebooks if we brought them all together.
Thoreau—and many other writers—loved their places so much that they chronicled all of their changes. I do the same. And I wonder, can we possibly love our home places enough to make the profoundly difficult changes in our lives needed to slow the impacts of the carbon we have spewed into the atmosphere enough so that my friend the first fawn lily will survive? I do not know.
For
the Children
Gary Snyder
The rising hills, the slopes,
of statistics
lie before us.
the steep climb
of everything, going up,
up, as we all
go down.
In the next century
or the one beyond that,
they say,
are valleys, pastures,
we can meet there in peace
if we make it.
To climb these coming crests
one word to you, to
you and your children:
stay together
learn the flowers
go light
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