Do
you remember being sick when you were little—sick enough to stay home from
school, but not sick enough for your mother, who had no car and lived in the
country, to re-organize a planned shopping trip? I am hovering in that same
state this weekend, occasionally lying on the couch in the sun with the cat,
with low fever dreams floating through my mind.
Haverhill,
Massachusetts was a dying mill town when we lived in Hampstead. The shoe and
fabric industries were all moving south for cheaper labor, into the Appalachian
mountains and then even further south, out of the country. Nothing was really moving in. The downtown was
shabby, despite some remodeling in the late 1950s and some urban renewal
brutilist apartment building from about 1965. Some storefronts were empty.
Others had floors blocked off, merchandise spread a little thin to make it look
fuller. The air was dusty; the linoleum was worn; the stores empty of people.
The Christmas decorations were dated and battered. I loved to wander away from
my mother and aunt, down the stairs to the book rack, where they sold first,
second, and third grader readers, math textbooks, and workbooks for the
Catholic school near-by. One day, my aunt, who had money, bought me one to the
readers and workbooks. I was thrilled and taught school out of it for years.
There
is a beauty in these old mill towns, the old mills themselves, so tall, and
orderly, and simple against a grey sky. Once bustling, now empty or
re-purposed. There are huge Catholic churches made of brick, small, smelly
bars, corner groceries that sell sub sandwiches that are not replicated outside
of New England (trust me, I have looked). There are neighborhoods full of nineteenth
century houses built as, or long ago converted to, apartments that create
walkable communities.
I am seeing them all this afternoon, along with the
candlepin bowling alley where I learned to bowl, despite a cold, one winter
afternoon. Memories of views from the back seat of my aunt’ station wagon,
squished in with the groceries, feeling a little guilty for not being in school
and a little delighted with being with adults in the middle of the day.
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