Tomato Processing

         

On Friday, we received a delivery of fifty pounds of paste tomatoes, enough, when processed, to feed us for the winter. They were glossy and firm—just beautiful in their tomato-ness. I fondled them all evening. The cat climbed into the box lid for the night.

                On Saturday, I processed tomatoes. First, I sliced them thin, taking off either end, and placed them in the food dehydrator. In about seven hours, they were dry, like chips. We will eat these, broken into bits, on salads, out of hand on hikes, and tossed into soups and stews when we need a hit of intense flavor. Meanwhile, they sit on the shelf in a quart canning jar, like all of the other dried fruits.

                Then, I started a double batch of crockpot sauce, in my two old crockpots—one avocado green, the other burnt orange, both with the traditional dancing veggies around the base. I leave the lid on until the tomatoes break down and simmer, then take them off so that it cooks down.  If I stir it every hour or so, it is done in five or six hours. Then, while the sauce is still hot, I can it in pint jars, processing in the steam canner for 25 minutes.  The pings greet me as I lift off the lid. Each crockpot yields four or five pints of sauce. I usually make crockpot sauce from my own tomatoes, because they come in more slowly and it lends itself to small batch work, but this was a good chance to fill in a few gaps.

                Once the crockpots and dryer are full, and the dining room begins to smell of cooking tomatoes, I move onto roasting. Quickly, I slice the tomatoes in half or in thirds, place them cut side down on a sheet pan, and pop them into a 350 oven. In about half an hour, they have wilted down to a paste with skins that I scoop into half pint jars. Sometimes the skins char a bit, but that’s ok. The half pints are also processed in the steam canner—I give them about 15 minutes if half a batch sat out and cooled down a bit while waiting for the second tray. Roasted tomatoes are great for pizza and other spreads and I also use them in soups and pasta sauce when I don’t want the tomato to dominate. They are drier than sauce so can be used in more places. It’s nice to get a bulk box of paste tomatoes to roast, because the process is messy, with lots of sheet pans and tools, so I like to do it all at once.

                As I finish, I haul the boxes of jarred tomatoes down into the basement, where they rest with the other winter stores. Pickles, jams, dried fruits, juices on one side, beans, grains, and dry goods on the other.  Onions and potatoes under the stairs, squashes in the larder. I feel like the mid-western grandmother in Greg Brown’s old song, who puts the summer in jars against hard cold winters.