When my parents bought their camper and hit the road in 1970, they quickly established a camping rhythm. We would spend several nights in low cost or free sites, like rest areas, and then swing into a fancy campground to empty the septic system, fill up with water, and do laundry. My mother was a sucker for significant campgrounds; our favorite was on the edge of the Badlands, looking back over the landscape. When I took the Ark across the country thirty years ago, I followed the same system—I had a KOA campground pass and map—and quickly developed a knack for finding cheap camping through close readings of the map, coming into civilization once or twice a week for the amenities.
It became a game. Driving back to New England for a wedding with my friend Sherrie, we didn’t intend to sleep free every night. But….one night up a back road into National Forest land…the next at a rest area in Death Valley….a third at a fisherman’s camp…and then, it was over. No paid camping heading East. We made it, so, no paid camping on the way West. It was more challenging because the Ark was full of furniture. I spent one night in the ditch of a gravel road across from Little America; the last morning, we woke up to the sprinklers on the lawn of the city park in Hood River. Roaming the American West, sleeping free in the back of a van, waking up at dawn to move on down the road to the nearest small cafĂ© for breakfast—it’s a classic story.
When Mark joined me on camping adventures, he bought into the story early on. We traveled out to Eastern Oregon on Memorial Day weekend, camping for free on the gravel roads around Paulina Crater. He explored the lava tube caves. I cooked him a real dinner on the camp stove in the van. He was smitten. We traveled this way for several years, sleeping in the parking lot of Mt Rainer one crowded summer weekend, at trail heads to get an early start on a hike, and in fisherman’s camps. Then something happened and he decided that this was NOT OK. He refused to camp anywhere that was not an official campground. It was not legal. He did not want to be woken up by the police and hassled. Our camping world shrunk.
Last weekend, we went out to the Klamath area, a huge, marshy lake surrounded by rugged dry mountains. It’s beautiful but not a popular tourist destination—too far from Portland. Too chilly, then too hot. We wandered around the logging museum at the Collier State Park, rode on a model train designed to carry people around a track through the scrub brush, and watched for pelicans on the lake. One night, we stayed in a Forest Service campground that was ten dollars a night and a third empty on Friday night—unheard of closer to the Cascades! The next night, we ran late in finding a space and pulled into a fisherman’s camp (also known as the parking lot for a boat launch that has a few tables and an outhouse) around eight. It was free. We watched the wind whip up froth off of the lake and ate dinner in the front of the van. There was one other group camping at the other end of the lot. Another car pulled in after dark. It was dark. It was quiet. It was free. I felt at home.



